![]() Referencing back to the plots above, the midrange control can only adjust from -10db to -20db, the bass and treble controls adjust from around -10db to 0db. Been a while since I played around with it since it doesn't work on my mac.Įdit to add - I find this method of explanation much more common in discussions of tube bass amps, but it's often easier to understand the fender tone stack controls as boost-cut-boost relative to the insertion loss. The duncan tone stack calculator is cool for messing with control layouts and I think you can also change the input/load impedance. The bandmaster will be a little different, the plate load tone stack versus a cathode driven tone stack has an impact on frequency response and insertion loss, but the basic design holds. With the fixed mids on the bandmasters it's similar to the bassman with the midrange pot is set somewhere near the middle to full so it would likely be somewhat more scooped than the second plot with bass and treble controls at full. ![]() With all controls at 10 you get a mid scoop, you're close to 0db in the treble/bass peaks but still -10db in the mids. Anyhow on a bassman with the controls set 0-10-0 you'll get this response curve, still sloped on the low end but close to flat though with a -10db loss across the spectrum. The ampbooks page has a good series on different tone stacks, here's the 5F6A stack analysis page which is where I'm shamelessly pulling these pre-made frequency plots. The usual way to get a flat response is to completely cut the bass and treble and dial the mids all the way up. It's difficult to get flat with a fender style tone stack, even harder with fixed mids. But it gives you an idea of what is going on. Dont try changing it if you dont know what you are doing (you can damage the amp, devalue it, and even kill yourself ). On an amp with a mid control that resistor is replaced with a 10K Audio pot. If you really don't want anyone to see it you can use the bass control from the normal channel if you never use that channel. Sometimes they use a spare input jack on the front but I think that looks funny. I don't have a schematic with me so I can't tell you exactly where but a lot of guys replace that resister with a pot and to keep from drilling a hole will use one of the spare speaker jacks in the back. The gotcha is that because they only have bass and treble there's actually a mid resistor that acts like having the mid control always set at six. They are passive so all they do is pull certain frequency ranges from your signal. E元4 World - Great resource, with some of cleanest layouts you'll find.The Valve Wizard - The guy's name is Merlin.DIY Stompboxes-Primarily dedicated to DIY pedal building, but there's a fair amount of amp info scattered throughout as well.AX84-If you're new to tube amp building, this site, and specifically the P1, is one of the best places to start.GEOFX-This is one of the best resources out there for amps and pedals.If you plan on posting links to your site so you can get some free advertisement, your post will disappear into the nethersphere. No SPAM - If you're an amp builder/seller and you want to talk about amp design or repair or modification and contribute to the sub's content, go for it.Please read the Tube Amp Safety documentation. Even an unplugged tube amp can retain enough juice in the capacitors to give you a very, very bad day. ![]() If you decide, whether suggested to you here or not, to open your amp and tinker with it, PLEASE BE CAREFUL, and learn how to do so safely. Tubes amps make use of very high voltages! These voltages can kill you dead. Whether you're a toob noob or Leo Fender reincarnated, you're welcome here. Would slightly increasing the 500pf work or is there a better place to do it? Thanks.Welcome to r/ToobAmps - A place to discuss that sweet tube tone. The SF definitely has flub when you crank the bass. How could I increase the low end but not so low in the frequencies that it flubs. So the question is, on the Fenders that have the 500pf cap, is it normal to have to crank the bass to get enough low end? I’d like to be able to get more lows out of the BF Bandmaster but not to get into flub land. It’s the opposite, treble at 8-9 and bass maybe 3ish to get a nice even tone. The only other Fender I have to compare to is a SF Bandmaster that is in a combo cab. This one seems to need the bass control almost to 8-9 and the treble way down to 5ish. I know most people say they set the bass control on Fenders low, 3-5 ish on the dial. All original Blue molded caps, plate resistors have been changed to new 100K, and all electrolytic caps have been replaced.
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